Un surfeur perdu ! Non, un passionné qui rame à la main 30 minutes pour traverser une baie, qui arrive sur une plage, qui prend sa planche sous le bras etmarche 20 min sur des rochers, qui se remet à l'eau et rame de nouveau à la main, et qui finit par arriver sur la vague qu'il connait et qu'il espère belle aujourd'hui ! Il n'était pas perdu !
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A lost surfer! No, an enthusiast who rows by hand for 30 minutes to cross a bay, who arrives at a beach, who takes his board under his arm and walks for 20 minutes on rocks, who gets back into the water and rows by hand again, and who ends up arriving on the wave that he knows and which he hopes will be good today! He wasn't lost! |
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